An experience that lasts forever
The fascination of via ferrata: how mountain guide Hansjörg Welscher gets (almost) everyone to the top – and always safely back down again.
“The hardest part is already behind us,” says Hansjörg Welscher after the first vertical meters of the Masarè via ferrata, which lead straight up. The mountain guide knows that right here, at the start of one of the most popular routes in the Catinaccio, fears must be overcome. But he also trusts that in the end, everything will work out safely. “In more than 30 years as a mountain guide,” he recalls, “I’ve only failed to get maybe five people to the top.”
For all the others, Hansjörg has created unforgettable moments of happiness on the Dolomite rocks in the Eggental: for young and old, families and solo travelers, the bold and the cautious, the sporty and the inexperienced. “Via ferratas,” he explains, “have become increasingly popular in recent years.” He talks about the thrill of leaving the beaten hiking paths, the excitement of moving high above the void yet always secured to the cable, and the immense joy of reaching the top and soaking in the panorama: “99% of those who try a via ferrata once will want to experience it again.”
Those who venture with a mountain guide don’t need to worry much: sturdy shoes, hiking clothes, sun and weather protection, a backpack with food and water – and, of course, the desire to move in the mountains. “I’ve got the rest,” Hansjörg says as he greets his group at the Paolina lift car park. Even the chairlift ride offers breathtaking views. He points out his territory, which he knows like the back of his hand. Almost every day he’s up here – climbing in summer, skiing in winter – sharing the wonders of the Dolomites with his guests.
His rules are clear: helmet fitted correctly, harness snug but comfortable, via ferrata set with an energy absorber and carabiners always clipped to the cable – never both unclipped at the same time. Then it just takes some stamina and steady focus. “All you really need is the fitness for a four-hour mountain hike,” he explains.
On the Masarè towers, at around 2600 meters, a short break reveals breathtaking 360° views. “The feeling of being up here will stay forever,” says Hansjörg. But he reminds everyone that concentration is still needed for the descent. With calm guidance, quick tips and decades of experience, he ensures that everyone makes it back down safely.
Five hours later, on the terrace of the Rotwand hut, over dumplings and pasta with game ragout, all exhaustion is forgotten. What remains is the joy of an unforgettable day. Hansjörg smiles: “We don’t need to die to go to paradise. We already live there.
