Culinary variety against an awe-inspiring backdrop
Tyrolean dumplings, meat from the charcoal grill or just a pizza? The Latemar Dolomites ski resort is not just famous for the excellence of its slopes but also for its gastronomic variety. Profiled below are six mountain chalets offering unforgettable visits.
Weigler Schupf
“I know almost all of my guests in person,” says Markus Plank. If the landlord of the Weigler Schupf can rely on anything, it is the loyalty of his customers. Anyone who has visited and felt how authenticity is more than just a slogan here, comes again and again. First and foremost, because of the relaxed, friendly atmosphere in the smallest chalet in the Latemar Dolomites ski resort, Markus is able to boast a large number of regulars. His regulars love not only the small but perfect sun terrace, but also the down-to-earth menu. Every day, the team of four that Markus leads shows that it doesn’t take much to cook well. “We prepare high quality produce with a lot of love,” says the landlord, who took over the Weigler Schupf from his parents in 2018.
The spaghetti aglio olio enjoys an almost legendary reputation at the Weigler Schupf – and not just among vegetarians – whilst the home-made Kaminwurzen (smoked sausages) and dumplings with goulash can also be found on the menu. Markus’ philosophy on the choice of produce used in his kitchen is “regional and the closer the better”. The best example of this is the beef that goes into the dishes here and is produced by Markus on his own farm in Eggen. He feels fortunate that in this way his restaurant benefits from the farm and vice versa, meaning that he is able to ensure that a long-held family tradition continues into the future too. The family has owned the farm for over 200 years, and the chalet, as immortalised on the roof ridge, was built back in 1889. In those days, like so many shacks here in the mountains, it was a small hay barn with an area for cooking and stabling for cattle. Today, despite being converted into a catered chalet, the Weigler Schupf has retained much of its original character – and is a truly captivating spot in the Eggen Valley.
In.Treska
“Waking up here and looking out of the window is simply priceless,” says André Sudarovich as he points to the two bunk beds that are slightly hidden away in the In.Treska chalet. Sometimes, in nice weather, he enjoys the luxury of staying overnight here in the chalet at 2200 metres above sea level and which opened in 2022 making it the newest in the Latemar Dolomites ski resort and taking in the view from the large panoramic windows. Normally, though, André sleeps at home in Predazzo, drives from Pampeago on a morning on his snowmobile high up to the fantastically located chalet – with, together with his son, Dario, brings a whole host of creativity and passion to the table.
When they had the opportunity to run the new chalet, Dario and André did not hesitate for long – especially when they realised that they complement one another perfectly. Dario in contact with the guests and with his passion for wine. And André in the kitchen with his many culinary ideas. And those differ from what one might expect from a conventional ski chalet. There is no South Tyrolean speck (bacon), but instead salami from black pigs from Caserta in Southern Italy. There is no bread from the bakery, but instead home-made baked goods whose dough is given plenty of time to prove in the small kitchen and handled with a lot of love. And there are unusual varieties of meat that are cooked on the charcoal grill at over 600 degrees C gaining a lovely crust and amazing roasted flavours whilst remaining beautifully tender inside. The culinary concept behind it all is as simple as it is ingenious: “I want to make everything myself – and I want to do it differently from everyone else,” says André.
Alongside classics such as fillet or Fiorentina, unusual meats including Australian wagyu, venison and horse meat are also on the menu. Cooked to perfection? André has a real feel for this. “I know exactly when it’s perfect,” he says, as he checks the consistency with his grilling fork and arranges the meat on a plate with pine shoots and coarsely ground salt. This taste experience is probably rather like the morning view from the windows of the In.Treska: simply priceless.
Baita Gardoné
Upstairs in the bar at the Baita Gardoné, a jersey belonging to the German World Cup winning goalkeeper, Manuel Neuer, is evidence of one of the many prominent personalities that have visited here. The attraction of this fabulously located chalet that is also known as the Mountain Riviera and is situated high above Predazzo is quite simply enormous. “It is like being in paradise,” says Klaus Pichler, as he lets his gaze roam over the panoramic view of the Dolomites. Klaus is a restaurateur with a passion, which is why everyone enjoys his hospitality – no matter what their status.
When Klaus serves another sizzling, melt-in-the-mouth Fiorentina steak or prepares a famous Gardoné Tartare at the table, then the sight of it alone is enough to make your mouth water. Since the culinary offering here is as exquisite as the panoramic view, the Baita Gardoné also has many fans and regular guests who come for the shrimp platter and fresh oysters too. One thing that is typical of Klaus is that he always carries a bottle of excellent olive oil around with him. A couple of drops on a plate, add fresh bread, sprinkle salt from the salt mill on it – and you don’t really need much more to get you in the mood for a lunch break. And if you are looking for the right beverage to go with their meal, as a sommelier, Klaus is the perfect guide to help you choose a glass of prosecco, wine or champagne.
And when – as is so often the case here – the sun is shining brightly from the sky, and on selected days DJs or live bands are playing, then it quite quickly becomes clear what Klaus’ idea of paradise is. And the best thing about it is that this paradise is easily found. Either on skis or, for pedestrians, by taking the convenient gondola from Predazzo.
Mayrl Alm
When Egon Matzneller began working as a chef at the Mayrl Alm, his current boss, Mark Eisath, had just been born. That was in 1988 – and even though some things have changed over the many intervening years, the Mayrl Alm has remained a constant in the hearts of many in the Latemar Dolomites ski resort. Mark is the fourth generation to continue the culinary heritage of his family, which as ever enjoys an excellent reputation far and wide.
When Mark looks through the opulent photo album that holds the history of the Mayrl Alm, he looks back on the impressive evolution of the alpine chalet, whose roots go back as far as 1764, when a bill of sale documented that a certain Franz de Paula Antoni von Mayrl had purchased the meadow and pasture “in the Obereggen Valley beneath the Reiter Joch in the district of Teitschnofen.” The Mayrl Alm came to be owned by the Eisath family in 1900, before Mark’s grandfather began to run it – initially with the aid of a dairywoman who took care of the cattle and also served guests with simple dishes and drinks. Whilst his grandfather viewed the development of tourism in winter with scepticism, Mark’s father, Karl, helped start up the ski resort in Obereggen. Consequently, with two rebuilds in 1984 and 2000, he gave the Mayrl Alm its current face as a ski chalet.
Alongside the self-service area, among other things the Mayrl Alm has also gained a strong reputation among fish and game lovers. Fish is a tradition, because Karl Eisath valued it highly and in addition the seafood spaghetti made by chef Egon is extremely popular. And game because Mark – like so many in his family – is a huntsman, and a large proportion of the game used in the dishes served at the Mayrl Alm he catches himself.
Anyone who takes a seat in the dining room also has a good chance of enjoying a truly convivial and authentic visit – for example when Stefan Edelsbrunner, Tyrolean champion on the accordion, strikes up a tune. Among the special events at the Mayrl Alm every winter is Burger Day. On this occasion, they serve up burgers made from the Eggental oxen reared by Mark’s neighbour. The bread is baked specially by the Pichler Bakery in Eggen, the cheese comes from the Learner Cheese Dairy in Deutschnofen and the bacon is prepared by Mark himself.
In good weather, hundreds of Mayrl burgers are handed over the counter – and, among other things, the proceeds go to support a South Tyrolean children’s cancer charity. “My brother and I had the idea for the event,” explains Mark. And it is a very personal and emotional cause for them both, since it is also held in memory of their father, who died of cancer in 2011.
Berghütte Oberholz
“When I go to work, it almost feels like a holiday,” says Renate Plank as she steps off the chairlift that takes her to the Berghütte Oberholz at almost 2100 metres above sea level every morning. Since it opened in 2016, the chalet has been the architectural flagship in the Latemar Dolomites ski resort and, with its three parlour-like niches and protruding glass fronts, fits spectacularly in the wonderful landscape. Renate, the manager of the Berghütte Oberholz, knows that it is an extra special place – even if the holiday feeling quickly evaporates as she steps from the chairlift into the day-to-day minutiae of work. That is because treating her guests to a gastronomic concept of the highest standard means that every wheel has to mesh together.
The Berghütte Oberholz, which is heated with the warmth from the ground, has long been one of the most popular places to stop for refreshments in the ski resort – be it in the stylish interior, which features Eggental spruce wood and fabulous views through the panoramic windows, or on the large, sun-kissed terrace. Renate’s kitchen team works flat out here, to conjure creative dishes from largely local produce – for example, the home-made “schuettelbrot” noodles with game ragout or a pine-cone risotto with buffalo mozzarella and smoked locally reared beef.
Not only because the cuisine at the Oberholz enjoys such an excellent reputation, but also because the Berghütte can easily be accessed by chairlift from Obereggen, selected events here are also extremely popular. Sometimes the events have a culinary theme or simply invite guests to enjoy a cosy get-together – for example with special cocktails and a Flying Buffet with the popular aperitivo lungo, when DJs play and ideally the stars and moon shine brightly from the clear night sky. The chairlift runs until just before midnight, safely carrying everyone back down to Obereggen. For Renate and her team, such events naturally involve a lot of work and short nights. However, when they head back up the mountain early the next morning, then they can be sure that despite the hard work, it will somehow still feel a little bit like going on holiday.
Zischgalm
“We all pull together at the Zischgalm,” says Johann Pichler, on the one hand filled with pride, whilst on the other looking forward to being able to slow down a little. This is because Zischgn-Jirgl, as he is called by the locals because of his origins at the Zischghof in Obereggen, is gradually handing over responsibility to his son, Alexander, and now also his grandson, Maximilian. The fact that three generations work here together in harmony, fills Johann with a certain satisfaction – especially since he can remember things being a little choppy up on the Zischgalm in the beginning.
The shell of the chalet may have stood since 1968 but only when the tow lift from the Latemar Hut was built did it make sense for the landlord to complete the construction of the Zischgalm. “Step by step,” remembers Johann Pichler, “the Zischgalm became what it is today.” On the one hand, a traditional ski chalet with a large self-service area and a spacious sun terrace. On the other, a restaurant with a dining room lovingly furnished with pine wood. And in addition, a special culinary feature in the ski resort – a pizzeria.
In the restaurant, the Pichlers and their 30-strong team of employees value quality – and wherever possible using local produce. That is because for Johann Pichler it goes without saying that he feels connected to his homeland – something that is expressed not only by the food, but also by his love of FC Südtirol, whose fan and sponsor he is. And even after more than 50 years at the Zischgalm, he still treasures the beauty and variety of the nature in the Eggen Valley. Above all when the days start to draw out again in winter and spring temperatures return to his hometown of Bolzano, whilst Obereggen is still under a layer of snow. “Then,” says Zischgn-Jirgl, “is when it is at its most beautiful here.”
Absam-Stube
Anyone starting a ski day from Obereggen will find it hard to resist stopping for a first break right after the first run. The sunny terrace with its inviting lounge furniture and the striking red white façade of the Absam-Stube, set against the backdrop of the Zanggen and the Latemar, exerts an almost magical attraction even from afar. Hannes Pichler has been running this centrally located hut in the Latemar Dolomites ski area together with his family for around a decade. However, the redesign of the Absam-Stube is much more than just a fresh coat of paint.
In collaboration with the Terlano based architect Felix Pardeller, the Pichler family has created a modern atmosphere with bold colors while preserving the charm of a traditional alpine hut. Snowboards suspended on ropes serve as seating, while lacquered skis decorate the walls. At the same time, the new Absam Stube features many elements of natural wood and, above all, down to earth cuisine made with regional ingredients wherever possible. Alongside classics such as a trio of dumplings or goulash soup, the Absam Burger has become a particular favorite. “We cook everything fresh,” says Hannes, who together with his children Valentina, Peter, Franziska and Katja and their partners ensures the warm hospitality at the Absam Stube.
The Absam Stube is the perfect place both for a quick drink at the outdoor kiosk and for a longer, relaxing break indoors. And for those who managed to ski past in the morning despite all the temptations, there is hardly a better place to end a ski day, especially since from here it only takes one more lift to return to Obereggen.
